India’s textile crafts reflect centuries of cultural exchange, regional identity, and skilled craftsmanship. From handwoven fabrics to intricate surface techniques, these traditions narrate stories of history, community, and artistry, continuing to inspire contemporary fashion and sustainable design practices today. Some of the top fashion design colleges in Maharashtra focus on training students in the art of textile crafts to help create unique voices in the fashion industry. Let us further explore the celebrated textile crafts of India.
Chanderi – Traditional Textile of Madhya Pradesh
Chanderi is one of the best-known handloom clusters in India, particularly famous for its sarees, made with a mix of silk and cotton. But if we look at its history, Chanderi has been adapting itself as per needs. Sari is the product of the second half of the twentieth century only. Then, there have been changes in the methodologies, equipment and even the compositions of yarns in the past. The heritage is attached with the skills of weaving high quality fabric products here. The weavers are actually the symbol of the heritage, as they have been the ones who produced the kind of stuff that received appreciation even from the royals.
Unlike the past, in the modern time of changes in lifestyle, Chanderi tends to stick with what it has been doing for decades now. It is because of the inability of those, who lead the decision-making about the product, to adapt as per the changes. Their ability has partly been affected by lack of patronage it used to have in the past.
Chamba Rumal – Traditional Textile of Himanchal Pradesh
The embroidery art form of the Chamba Rumal originated in the erstwhile princely hill states of Chamba, Kangra, Basohli and nearby states which now form part of the Himachal Pradesh. Though practiced throughout the region, the craft came to be associated specifically with Chamba owing to the patronage given by the rulers of the area. Artistic styles of Pahari miniature painting was reflected in the Rumals of the 18th-19th century A.D.
Chamba Rumals were embroidered by the upper class women of royalty. Embroidery was done in double satin stitch called dorukha. No Rumal was in single color. The stitch was carried forwards and backwards alternately and was done simultaneously on both sides of the cloth. Rumals were expressions of the life of the common man. The state government has got the Chamba handkerchief, Kullu and Kinnauri shawl and Kangra tea registered under the Geographical Indications (GI) of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, with the Chennai-based Geographical Indications Registry.
Phulkari – Traditional Textile of Punjab
Phulkari literally means flower working which was one time used for word embroidery but in course of time word ―Phulkari‖ became restricted to embroidered head cloth/odini. Simple and sparsely embroidered odhini and shawls made for everyday use are called Phulkaris whereas closely and all covered over are made for special and ceremonial occasions are known as Baghs (Garden).Phulkari and Baghs were worn by ladies all over Punjab during marriage festivals and other joyous occasions.
They were embroidered by ladies themselves for their own use and use of other family members and not for sale in the market. Thus it was purely a domestic art which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought color into day to day life. In a way it was true folk art. Customs had grown to give Phulkari and Baghs to brides at the time of marriages. Some of the best Phulkari and Baghs are known to have been made in Hazara and Chakwal areas of Northern Punjab. Some scholars feel that the art of Phulkari came from Iran where it is known as ―Gulkari‖. Some feel it came from Central Asia along with Jat tribes who migrated to India and settled in Punjab, Haryana and Gujarat.
Banarasi Brocade – Traditional Textile of Uttar Pradesh
Banarasi saris are saris made in Varanasi, a city which is also called ‘Benares’. These saris are historically considered to be among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade; fine silk and opulent embroidery, and being highly sought after. These saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate design, and because of these engravings, these saris are relatively heavy. Their special characteristics are Mughal inspired designs such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel, a string of upright leaves called jhallar at the outer edge of border is a characteristic of these sarees.
Block Printing – Traditional Textile of Rajasthan
Archaeological remains from the Indus Valley civilisation in the 3rd millennium BC include cotton fragments dyed with madder, a dye commonly used for Block Printing even today. Dye vats, spindles and bronze needles found at sites like Mohenjedaro indicate highly developed fabric work. Today, Block Printing is practiced in several Indian states.
In Gujarat, hand printing has been practiced and perpetuated by the Paithapur families. They make intricate blocks, and print their textiles using the mud resist-Printing method. These prints are called Sodagiri (trader) prints. In Kutch, the popular patterns are black and red designs of birds, animals, and dancing girls. The saris of Ahmedabad and Baroda have large mango patterns against a red or blue background.
The important centres for this form of Hand Printing are Jaipur, Bagru, Sanganer, Pali and Barmer. Barmer is known for its prints of red chillies with blue-black outlines, surrounded by flower-laden trees.
Madhubani – Traditional Craft on Textile of Bihar
Madhubani paintings and textiles, (also referred to as Mithila Art as it flourishes in the Mithila region of Bihar), are characterized by line drawings based on mythological themes, in bright colours and decorative borders. They are so called because they originated in and around a large agricultural town in Bihar, Madhubani or ‘Forest of Honey’. Originally, Madhubani Paintings were executed on freshly plastered mud walls, on religious occasions or weddings.
Conclusion
India’s prominent textile crafts stand as living traditions that connect the past with the present. Preserving these crafts not only safeguards cultural heritage but also supports artisan livelihoods and sustainable practices. As global interest grows, Indian textiles continue to inspire design innovation while celebrating diversity, skill, and timeless craftsmanship. Pursuing a B.Des in Fashion and Lifestyle Design can help you further explore the celebrated textile crafts of India.