Hair colorants used by mixing a dye and developer, most frequently use hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide penetrates into the scalp and swells the hair shaft, consenting small dye molecules to pass in and oxidize into larger, permanent colour molecules. Hair colorants are usually classified as permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary, individually they provide different grades of colour intensity and durability. Professionals holding a B.Sc. in Beauty Cosmetology have the knowledge and skills to understand the concept of hair colorants in the cosmetics industry.
Recently there have been significant advancements and improvements in hair-colour technology, including different formulations, better thickening systems, and a prominent increase in products designed specifically for men. For men’s and women’s both hair-colour products, confrontation to colour fading has become a vital requirement and has even led to the formulation of new oxidation-based dyes. Whereas some novelties have been determined by regulatory demands, and result from the increase of innovative and greater components or ingredients.
General Considerations: Absorption of Dyes
As earlier mentioned, there are a number of important considerations in formulation of a dye product. These include thickener, amount of organic solvent, pH, and surfactants. Besides aesthetics, one of the major reasons for their importance (for those products utilizing dyes that diffuse into the fiber) is that they determine the partition coefficient of the dye between the hair and the carrier. Apparently, for explanations of use, raw material cost and efficiency, the formulator requires this number to be more.
Since dye molecules generally are aromatic compounds that are not highly water-soluble, in the past there has been the need for some organic, water-miscible solvent to aid in their solubilization and delivery. So, for example, glycol derivatives or alcohols may be used to solubilize them, and may be used in combination with surfactants, fatty acids, amines, fatty amides and other cosmetic adjuvants. Though, the formulator must take care to release the colourant to the hairs, instead of keeping it in the vehicle.
Temporary Colourants
These products are based mainly on acid dyes. While they are premeditated to be temporary, they are made longer-lasting in two conditions: if the hair to which they are applied is significantly damaged or spoiled, or if they are heated (e.g., with a hair drier) after application. These are different from almost all other products in that they are ‘leave-in’ products, that is after application, the hair is not washed and removal is with the first shampoo. And that’s why this is one of the trickiest products in which to balance propensity to deliver dyes and ability to give a product that imparts a pleasing feel to hair, with the stability. There must be sufficient dye to impart a uniform Colour, and abundant ‘assistants’ such as polymer and surfactant to give a smooth distribution. Most would leave the hair with an unlikable feel. Although there were several novel approaches, these have not been used to enlarge the temporary dye market, because these all have the potential to make the hair feel coated and unattractive.
Semipermanent Dyeing Systems
These dye products have been used for a long time, but not nearly as long as permanent products. They do, however, perform a function of which all other classes of dyes are incapable. They suggest dark colours avoiding the use of hydrogen peroxide. Henceforth there is no bleaching of the hair’s melanin, only covering it. In adding, products usually give some degree of abundant effect. That is, the grey hair is coloured somewhat differently than the pigmented hair. These products wash out gradually, so there is no problem with roots or retouching. They are easy to use, and do not require mixing. Hence, they are a good entry product. Finally, they are easy to fragrance, because there is no ammonia.
They are prevalent as a hair colouring substitute for people who want to return grey hair to practically its original colour. This method uses compounds that are already coloured, and no chemistry occurs to form the dye compounds in the hair, as in oxidation dye products. The aim also is different from an oxidation dye; colour from these systems is designed to wash out gradually with time. The delivery systems generally contain an organic solvent such as an alcohol or glycol derivative, a fatty acid, fatty acid amide, thickener, surfactant and perfume, besides water and the dyes. An aliphatic amine acts as a co-solvent and buffer, making it possible to take advantage of the swelling of the hair observed at pH 9-10. These parameters are adjusted to optimize the partition coefficient between the hair and the dye.
Permanent Systems: Dyes
Permanent also called Oxidation dyes because of their stability to the normal applying processes. Normally, it is growth of the hair, rather than fading, that dictates the need to re-colour or ‘touch-up’. This dyes loss is also unique, from the formulation aspect, they are permanent, there is the potential for more obvious colour build-up on the re-dyed hair, than with other products. This can result in a striped appearance from repeated dyeing. They are also unique among all classes of hair colourants in their capacity to give shades both lighter and darker than the untreated hair; that is, colours from light blonds to dark natural blacks are available. Also, different from the commercially available temporary and semipermanent systems, colour formation on hair is the result of chemical changes in the materials applied to the head which are pioneers to the colorants.
Conclusion
These are some of the different kinds of hair colourants and their applications in the cosmetic industry. It is important to understand the different kinds of hair colourants when formulating new products for the cosmetic industry. Pursuing a cosmetic science course from one of the best beauty cosmetology colleges in Nashik can boost your career in the right direction within the cosmetic industry. Find a college that suits your career goals and start building a bright future in the cosmetic industry. Good luck!